First race day with new engine

First race event with new engine. Not a good run, building boost while spinning too much blew a hole in one of the silicone couplers. After loosing boost I just cruised down the strip. Raceday was over after 2 bad runs. Specs: bored m20b25(2700cc), wiseco forged pistons & rods, balanced/lightweight crank, stand alone ecu, 306cc injectors, full msd ignition setup, 3 inch intake & exhaust, GT3076 turbo and some more....

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1987 Monte Carlo SS For Sale

$30000 OBO The engine is a 383 stroker with a F1 Procharger, Procharger air to air intercooler, Scat 4340 forged steel rotating assembly with blower pistons (8:1 compression), AFR 227 Chevy race heads (75cc combustion), Offset rocker arms, Comp custom grind cam .650 lift, Super Victor intake with a 1" spacer on top of that, 7 quart oil pan with high volume oil pump, engine put together with all ARP bolts. Big Stuff 3 fuel injection management, 90lb. injectors, 90mm throttle body, 12 bolt rear end with 373 gears, Stud girdle, C-clip eliminator, Welded axle tubes, Wilwood 4 piston racing calipers all around racing rotors all around, line lock. TH350 transmission with TCI 4500 stall speed converter, 16 gallon fuel cell all with aircraft aluminum grade hardware, 200GPH Weldon fuel pump, battery in trunk, 10 point roll cage, Auto Meter 10000 RPM tach, Auto Meter Cobalt series gauges, racing seats with 4 point harness belts, MSD ignition and Msd box, 1 3/4" Hooker Super Compition headers, 3" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster Super 44 mufflers, fire extinguisher. 35000 obo Only 150 miles on motor!! Over $35000 invested in parts alone! Come see why it's this price. I am the 2nd owner of this car, I have had it for 18 years. It's the original black paint job with purple pinstripes, T-tops and 60000 miles total on the car which has never been in the rain since I've owned it. I will give my phone number and directions to see the car from email contact. The car is in McHenry ...

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98 GT SLP mustang pull at night

Motor: 4.6L - bbk 86mm maf -Jlt intake -75mm throttle body -Throttle body spacer -c&l plenum -plenum spacer -MSD ignition coil and wires -Pulleys march -Diablo tuner -SLP loudmouth catback -b&m short shifter -bassani catted xpipe drivetran: -Rebuilt rear end - 4.10 gears - upper and lower steeda control arms -steeda springs -tokico shocks -cobra brake conversion -Baer drilled and slotted rotors -Lakewood u joints - steeda subframe connectors

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Danger - No Parts Available

I love sports cars, and my choice in cars are those which were made from the 1960's to the mid 1980's. So far I have had a 1960 Porsche, 1959 Peerless, 1984 Toyota MR2, 1980 Maserati, and currently a 1984 Ferrari. If you read classic car magazines you will find ad after ad for parts for American cars going back to the Model T Fords and earlier. No problemo you think. I can always get parts for older cars. On the other hand if you have a limited production sports car - good luck. Here are a couple of examples that I experienced.

1980 Maserati Merak SS model, with 652 cars made for worldwide distribution. I encountered a problem with a steering knuckle nut. No new ones available. None where being manufactured, because who would want to go to the expense of setting up production on a limited issue vehicle. It just was not practical. We checked all over the world. No luck. My mechanic found some with the right inside diameter, but the wrong outside. Next was one with the correct outside, but the wrong inside. I also tried finding a vehicle that was being "parted out", or dismantled. Finally my mechanic made one up from scratch. Next problem was the ignition system failed. No one could find a replacement for it. I contacted the original manufacturer and found they had sold the last two units several years ago.

Sorry but no plans to make new ones. None of these parts were available on the used parts market. Again my mechanic came through; he installed a new MSD ignition, and placed it out of the way in the engine compartment, leaving the original unit in place. This way the car looked original, but I was able to drive it. 1984 Ferrari 308 GTB. The engine started dying on me, which was interesting when you are in the fast lane on a freeway. I had to have the car towed in several times. Turned out to be a very subtle problem. It seems there are three sensors on the fly wheel which tell the engine management system various information about the position of internal parts. One was failing on an intermittent basis. Its one thing to determine what went wrong with a hard failure, and quite another when the problem comes and goes.

So big deal, let's buy a new sensor. Nope. Again none were available from the distributors, the factory or on the used parts marketplace. After some research my trusty mechanic found that some Lamborghini models used the same sensor. I replaced all three on the theory that the other two would be failing soon. The moral of these stories is that if you like exotic cars and buy one, be prepared for long periods of not having a car available while you wait for parts. The Maserati sat around for two months while we searched. Also be prepared to have someone hand build a broken or missing part, while you count your pennies figuring out if you can afford this solution. Oh, and brace yourself for some frustration, in between the times you really enjoy your car.

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1986 Ford F150 300 I6 Straight Pipe Exhaust

Great sounding Ford 300 inline 6 (4.9L). in a 1986 F150. Truck has a cracked frame and is for sale for $300 With spare frame sections and axle. Truck has an MSD Blaster ignition coil, Grant steering wheel, Sunpro tach that's not hooked up, APC fog lights, ghetto pedal covers (Rubber pedal covers fell off), Edelbrock air filter that needs an adapter, new fuel pump, new distributor cap/rotor, new plugs and wires, 4 speed floor shift, new brakes, new brake lines, and more.

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1969 Cougar audio clip

1969 Mercury Cougar. 351W. Full MSD ignition, air gap intake, 670 cfm Holley. Comp cam, 2 inch exhaust. Purple hornies mufflers,3K rpm stall, 3.89 gears in the rear. I love this car more than most people I know, and it makes me sick to see what has happened to the roof since the vinyl top has failed. One more TDY over seas, and she will start getting more attention!

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Stock Car Electronics - Proper Grounding

Proper grounding of stock car electronics is a critical to winning races. All ground connections should contact bare metal. Powder coating and anodizing both act as insulators preventing a good connection. Not only must the block be grounded, but the cylinder heads must be separately grounded as well. Whether you call it a brain, MSD, black box, amplifier, box, or ignition box, it must have a common ground with the rest of the car and electrical system. If the ignition coil is an E-core design, the coil bracket must be grounded. Make sure that the starter solenoid is grounded. Some solenoids have a dedicated ground wire, but most ground through the mounting bracket.

You should have a 1/4" ground stud welded to the chassis in an easily accessible location near the starter solenoid. This is a common ground junction point for the engine, cylinder heads, ignition, tach, driver coolers, and all blowers. It may be prettier to hide junction posts and the like, but when you are in a hurry trying to fix a problem, accessibility is essential. By making the ground stud 1/4" and using 1/4" ring connectors on all ground wires, you cannot mistakenly put a ground wire on a hot power source. Both the Master disconnect and the starter solenoid studs are 5/16" or larger.

The steering wheel stop switch should be connected in line from the ignition On-Off switch and the Ignition box. Some people who run MSD ignition boxes may use the points trigger wire and the stop switch to complete a circuit to ground. Their logic is "that if the switch fails, the car will still run." Logically, if a switch fails, it has a 50-50 chance of failure in either position. A quality switch assembly will prevent failure. The main reason from an electrical/electronic standpoint to interrupt the power from the ignition switch is to reduce radio interference. The wire from the ignition switch only carries 5-10 milliamps whereas the points wire carries many times that amount since its designed purpose was to carry to the points enough energy to burn through any oil film or moisture on the point surfaces and trigger the box. Always try to separate the PTT coiled cable and the Stop Switch coiled cable.

The master switch should be on the POSITIVE side of the battery circuit. Electronic devices including the tachometer, Ignition box, and alternator all take a very small electrical pulse and amplify it with transistors and other electronic components, to the point where the signal is strong enough to control the ignition output or other related functions. Electron flow needs to be shut off on the POSITIVE side to prevent a potentially harmful backup of electrical energy. Under a no load, condition when everything is shut off, it is acceptable to disconnect the NEGATIVE wire first. Interrupting the current flow by switching batteries via the ground cable, or otherwise shutting off the negative flow may cause electronic components to fail.

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