Two 1987 Gran Fury's race one another (One is factory stock & other is modified)

My son & I have two 1987 Plymouth Gran Fury Police Car packages that came off the assembly line together (VIN Numbers: 1P3BB2640HX749618 and 1P3BB2640HX749616) that I purchased from the PA State Police in August of 1995. My car (The Silver car) is all original right down to the spot light. My son's car (The Black primer car) was completely modified by him thru the years. Both cars run the factory 318 motor but his has all kinds of speed equipment installed including: Headers, Dual Exhaust pipes with no cats on them, MSD mini starter, MSD AL6 ignition box, MSD blaster 2 coil, KN Air Filter, E3 Spark Plugs, MSD Super Conductor spark plug wires, B&M Slap shifter, Lakewood Industries traction bars and he removed the rubber floor matting and insulation, body trim and interior trim from inside of the car to make it lighter. By the results of the video, you all can see that he is doing a good job with the modifications. As more modifications are made, they will be posted in other videos, plus we will do another race in which the cars can be seen much better when we find a bigger parking lot to do this in. We were limited with how fast we could go and distance, but with a larger lot, we will have a better idea and view of how the race really does go. I will also make videos of each car so everyone can see what each car looks like at a standstill point. I hope you enjoy this short video, Thanks for viewing :O)

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HSPN SEMA 07 - MSD Ignition Interview

HSPN Interview of MSD Ignitionfrom SEMA 2007 in Las Vegas, NV.

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Automotive Overall performance Upgrades

Most superior-excellent cold air intakes are created by engineers with a long time of practical knowledge on particular cars that have optimized the area of the incoming air filter to be the in the coolest spot achievable. When exploring cold air intakes, you want to go for quality not price, it will make a big difference in the horsepower you can get out of it. Advisable makes are Injen, AEM, K&N, and some others dependent on your make and product.

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Understanding Atex: Prevention of Explosions in the Workplace

ATEX is a European directive; it came into force in 2003 to ensure that companies that work with potentially explosive materials have adequate safety measures to prevent fire and explosion. Amazingly, industry analysts suggest that less than half of all companies that are required to abide by the ATEX directive even know what it is.





It is not just chemical or arms manufacturers either that should be aware of ATEX but also industries like food manufacturing as most powdered foods including custard, flour, sugar, coffee and dried milk all has the potential to cause explosions.





ATEX (137) recognises three zones for both dust and vapour explosions. For dust, zone 20 is the highest risk zone where an explosive cloud of dust could potentially ignite at any time, whilst zone 21 has less potential for explosions and zone 22 is the least likely. For vapours the zones are 0, 1 and 2 with zone 0 having the most potential for an explosion.





All companies that possibly have an area that is governed by a zone needs to be risk assessed and any equipment that falls short of the directive’s requirement should be replaced.





Whilst most companies may be quite aware of the potential explosive nature of their environments (the material safety data sheet MSDS should have been issued with any potentially hazardous material) many companies are unaware of the standards equipment needs to face when operating in certain zones, particularly in the food industry where it is not uncommon for a lot of older equipment to still be in use.





Also, a lot of factories that have recently computerised their procedures or upgraded their IT may be unaware of the potential risks their PCs may cause.





Computers of course are full of circuit boards that can easily short (particularly in dusty areas where dust itself can settle between contacts) and create a spark and if there happens to be a cloud of dust suddenly evacuated from a particular machine or process at that time; then boom!





In environments identified as ATEX zones 0, 1, 20 and 21, then computers need to be replaced by intrinsically safe or air-purged systems, however even in environments where an explosion is not that likely, such as zone 2, a coincidental spark from a PC could end not just your production line but possibly somebody’s life too.





These machines could of course be replaced too but many companies feel the expense for what is really only a slight risk is not justified, despite what the ATEX directive orders.





However, there are alternatives. Speciality industrial PC enclosures that can house computers, monitors, printers and all peripheries, are available that meet requirements of ATEX zone 2 .





Apart from being a lot cheaper than specifically designed systems, these computer enclosures have the add advantage of allowing you to keep you existing IT and replace it whenever you like whilst keeping the same enclosure.





ATEX has only been in force for the last 5 years (and only two for equipment in use before 2003) but it is only a matter of time before the HSE (Health and Safety Executive) cracks down and starts prosecuting companies for failing to adhere to the directive. Although a great big fine is probably preferable to your production line being blown apart due to faulty electrical equipment!

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Competition cars to save money and cheap and trick the faithful satisfied with no

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com:80/negotiation-articles/competition-cars-to-save-money-and-cheap-and-trick-the-faithful-satisfied-with-no-2911969.html

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5.3 Monte ss

1985 monte carlo ss 327 lm7 3rd gear pull driveshaft twist 200r4 2000 corvette cam msd ignition 3.73 gears 5.3 liter 327

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2000 Dodge Ram Burnout 5.9

doing a couple burnout, to listen to exhaust and just to light them up enjoy!!!! mopar baby This is the work that has been done to my Dodge Ram 1500 5.9. v8 mopar - superchips flashpaq - K&N Cold Air Intake - Fastman Throttle Body 52mm - Rebuilt Starter - Rewired Battery Terminals - NGK Iridium IX - MSD Wires - MSD Ignition Coil - Custom Exhaust with Cherry Bomb Extreme Dual Out - 24" Stainless Steel Tips - Custom Headlights & Tailights - Stainless Steel Gauge Bezel - Sony Headunit - Infinity Speakers - Dodge Floor Mats & Seat Covers - Blue Neons in Cab - 2 inch lift in front - spray in liner - slt edition

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First race day with new engine

First race event with new engine. Not a good run, building boost while spinning too much blew a hole in one of the silicone couplers. After loosing boost I just cruised down the strip. Raceday was over after 2 bad runs. Specs: bored m20b25(2700cc), wiseco forged pistons & rods, balanced/lightweight crank, stand alone ecu, 306cc injectors, full msd ignition setup, 3 inch intake & exhaust, GT3076 turbo and some more....

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1987 Monte Carlo SS For Sale

$30000 OBO The engine is a 383 stroker with a F1 Procharger, Procharger air to air intercooler, Scat 4340 forged steel rotating assembly with blower pistons (8:1 compression), AFR 227 Chevy race heads (75cc combustion), Offset rocker arms, Comp custom grind cam .650 lift, Super Victor intake with a 1" spacer on top of that, 7 quart oil pan with high volume oil pump, engine put together with all ARP bolts. Big Stuff 3 fuel injection management, 90lb. injectors, 90mm throttle body, 12 bolt rear end with 373 gears, Stud girdle, C-clip eliminator, Welded axle tubes, Wilwood 4 piston racing calipers all around racing rotors all around, line lock. TH350 transmission with TCI 4500 stall speed converter, 16 gallon fuel cell all with aircraft aluminum grade hardware, 200GPH Weldon fuel pump, battery in trunk, 10 point roll cage, Auto Meter 10000 RPM tach, Auto Meter Cobalt series gauges, racing seats with 4 point harness belts, MSD ignition and Msd box, 1 3/4" Hooker Super Compition headers, 3" exhaust with H pipe and Flowmaster Super 44 mufflers, fire extinguisher. 35000 obo Only 150 miles on motor!! Over $35000 invested in parts alone! Come see why it's this price. I am the 2nd owner of this car, I have had it for 18 years. It's the original black paint job with purple pinstripes, T-tops and 60000 miles total on the car which has never been in the rain since I've owned it. I will give my phone number and directions to see the car from email contact. The car is in McHenry ...

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98 GT SLP mustang pull at night

Motor: 4.6L - bbk 86mm maf -Jlt intake -75mm throttle body -Throttle body spacer -c&l plenum -plenum spacer -MSD ignition coil and wires -Pulleys march -Diablo tuner -SLP loudmouth catback -b&m short shifter -bassani catted xpipe drivetran: -Rebuilt rear end - 4.10 gears - upper and lower steeda control arms -steeda springs -tokico shocks -cobra brake conversion -Baer drilled and slotted rotors -Lakewood u joints - steeda subframe connectors

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Danger - No Parts Available

I love sports cars, and my choice in cars are those which were made from the 1960's to the mid 1980's. So far I have had a 1960 Porsche, 1959 Peerless, 1984 Toyota MR2, 1980 Maserati, and currently a 1984 Ferrari. If you read classic car magazines you will find ad after ad for parts for American cars going back to the Model T Fords and earlier. No problemo you think. I can always get parts for older cars. On the other hand if you have a limited production sports car - good luck. Here are a couple of examples that I experienced.

1980 Maserati Merak SS model, with 652 cars made for worldwide distribution. I encountered a problem with a steering knuckle nut. No new ones available. None where being manufactured, because who would want to go to the expense of setting up production on a limited issue vehicle. It just was not practical. We checked all over the world. No luck. My mechanic found some with the right inside diameter, but the wrong outside. Next was one with the correct outside, but the wrong inside. I also tried finding a vehicle that was being "parted out", or dismantled. Finally my mechanic made one up from scratch. Next problem was the ignition system failed. No one could find a replacement for it. I contacted the original manufacturer and found they had sold the last two units several years ago.

Sorry but no plans to make new ones. None of these parts were available on the used parts market. Again my mechanic came through; he installed a new MSD ignition, and placed it out of the way in the engine compartment, leaving the original unit in place. This way the car looked original, but I was able to drive it. 1984 Ferrari 308 GTB. The engine started dying on me, which was interesting when you are in the fast lane on a freeway. I had to have the car towed in several times. Turned out to be a very subtle problem. It seems there are three sensors on the fly wheel which tell the engine management system various information about the position of internal parts. One was failing on an intermittent basis. Its one thing to determine what went wrong with a hard failure, and quite another when the problem comes and goes.

So big deal, let's buy a new sensor. Nope. Again none were available from the distributors, the factory or on the used parts marketplace. After some research my trusty mechanic found that some Lamborghini models used the same sensor. I replaced all three on the theory that the other two would be failing soon. The moral of these stories is that if you like exotic cars and buy one, be prepared for long periods of not having a car available while you wait for parts. The Maserati sat around for two months while we searched. Also be prepared to have someone hand build a broken or missing part, while you count your pennies figuring out if you can afford this solution. Oh, and brace yourself for some frustration, in between the times you really enjoy your car.

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1986 Ford F150 300 I6 Straight Pipe Exhaust

Great sounding Ford 300 inline 6 (4.9L). in a 1986 F150. Truck has a cracked frame and is for sale for $300 With spare frame sections and axle. Truck has an MSD Blaster ignition coil, Grant steering wheel, Sunpro tach that's not hooked up, APC fog lights, ghetto pedal covers (Rubber pedal covers fell off), Edelbrock air filter that needs an adapter, new fuel pump, new distributor cap/rotor, new plugs and wires, 4 speed floor shift, new brakes, new brake lines, and more.

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1969 Cougar audio clip

1969 Mercury Cougar. 351W. Full MSD ignition, air gap intake, 670 cfm Holley. Comp cam, 2 inch exhaust. Purple hornies mufflers,3K rpm stall, 3.89 gears in the rear. I love this car more than most people I know, and it makes me sick to see what has happened to the roof since the vinyl top has failed. One more TDY over seas, and she will start getting more attention!

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Stock Car Electronics - Proper Grounding

Proper grounding of stock car electronics is a critical to winning races. All ground connections should contact bare metal. Powder coating and anodizing both act as insulators preventing a good connection. Not only must the block be grounded, but the cylinder heads must be separately grounded as well. Whether you call it a brain, MSD, black box, amplifier, box, or ignition box, it must have a common ground with the rest of the car and electrical system. If the ignition coil is an E-core design, the coil bracket must be grounded. Make sure that the starter solenoid is grounded. Some solenoids have a dedicated ground wire, but most ground through the mounting bracket.

You should have a 1/4" ground stud welded to the chassis in an easily accessible location near the starter solenoid. This is a common ground junction point for the engine, cylinder heads, ignition, tach, driver coolers, and all blowers. It may be prettier to hide junction posts and the like, but when you are in a hurry trying to fix a problem, accessibility is essential. By making the ground stud 1/4" and using 1/4" ring connectors on all ground wires, you cannot mistakenly put a ground wire on a hot power source. Both the Master disconnect and the starter solenoid studs are 5/16" or larger.

The steering wheel stop switch should be connected in line from the ignition On-Off switch and the Ignition box. Some people who run MSD ignition boxes may use the points trigger wire and the stop switch to complete a circuit to ground. Their logic is "that if the switch fails, the car will still run." Logically, if a switch fails, it has a 50-50 chance of failure in either position. A quality switch assembly will prevent failure. The main reason from an electrical/electronic standpoint to interrupt the power from the ignition switch is to reduce radio interference. The wire from the ignition switch only carries 5-10 milliamps whereas the points wire carries many times that amount since its designed purpose was to carry to the points enough energy to burn through any oil film or moisture on the point surfaces and trigger the box. Always try to separate the PTT coiled cable and the Stop Switch coiled cable.

The master switch should be on the POSITIVE side of the battery circuit. Electronic devices including the tachometer, Ignition box, and alternator all take a very small electrical pulse and amplify it with transistors and other electronic components, to the point where the signal is strong enough to control the ignition output or other related functions. Electron flow needs to be shut off on the POSITIVE side to prevent a potentially harmful backup of electrical energy. Under a no load, condition when everything is shut off, it is acceptable to disconnect the NEGATIVE wire first. Interrupting the current flow by switching batteries via the ground cable, or otherwise shutting off the negative flow may cause electronic components to fail.

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Automotive Performance Upgrades

Considering some performance enhancements to your car, or new to performance scene? Here is an article designed to help you learn the basics.

First of all, you want to have a "well-oiled machine" in order to start performance work on your car. Keep up with the basic maintenance requirements and make sure everything else is performing as it should before you begin upgrading (i.e. no check engine light, no fluid leaks, etc.). However, you can incorporate performance enhancements into your basic maintenance as well. For example, if you have a car that's due for a tune up, you can use Iridium spark plugs, and a K&N air filter, or upgraded ignition components such as MSD ignition products, bigger wires, etc. You also always want to use high-quality oil in your vehicle. Your vehicle is your baby, take care of it and it will reward you every day. High quality oil only costs a few dollars more, and you'll drive with confidence knowing the internals of your engine are lubricated with the good stuff. Oils we recommend are Castrol GTX, Mobil 1 Synthetic, and Royal Purple.

If you're looking for something a little more hopped up, look into getting a high performance exhaust. Opening up the exhaust will open up the air flow coming from your engine and remove restrictions that cause poor performance. If you live in a pollution-regulated state or district, make sure to choose an exhaust system that is certified to pass emissions tests or is 50-state legal. Call us and we can recommend an exhaust for you to purchase and have installed at our shop. Magnaflow is a good-quality brand that covers most makes and models of vehicles at an affordable price. In addition to performance exhaust systems, you can also choose modifications such as headers and downpipes, and free-flowing catalytic converters.

Next, you'll want to upgrade your air intake system. Depending on your vehicle, a cold air intake is going to be the best performance for your money. A cold air intake not only opens up the airflow coming into your engine, it also re-routes the factory airbox system to a location where heat from the engine won't increase the temperature of the air coming in. Most high-quality cold air intakes are designed by engineers with years of experience on specific vehicles that have optimized the location of the incoming air filter to be the in the coolest spot possible. When researching cold air intakes, you want to go for quality not price, it will make a big difference in the horsepower you can get out of it. Recommended brands are Injen, AEM, K&N, and others depending on your make and model.

Suspension and Steering is another department in which a lot of aftermarket upgrades are available. Again, if you're due for maintenance like changing your struts or replace your coil springs, you may want to look at installing aftermarket parts since you're going to be spending the money anyway. Most of the suspension upgrades you do will go hand in hand with the amount of horsepower you're adding to the car. You want to make sure your car is going to be able to physically handle the added power. Even if you're not going for huge amounts of horsepower, an aftermarket suspension will increase your vehicle's overall handling capabilities and ride comfort. Depending on the make of your vehicle, some great brands are Koni, KW, H&R, and TEIN. There are many choices available, call us before you decide so we can help you choose the best ride quality and handling for your personal tastes and budget.

Still want more power? By this time you've developed what we call the "addiction" to performance. There is a whole world of aftermarket upgrades out there, from computer chips to engine building to forced induction to full-on nitrous foggers. By then your car will have transformed into a full-blown street or race machine, and your wallet will be lighter. However far you choose to go with it, we are here for you to provide recommendations on parts and install whatever you choose to go with.

Thanks for reading, and don't hesitate to call us at (888) 806-6283 and we can custom-design a performance package for your vehicle and ship the parts directly to your door or a qualified shop of your choice. In Florida? Considering bring the vehicle to our shop in Sarasota for a professional consultation and installation.

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1995 mustang powersliding (aka swave')

Aluminum flywheel, msd ignition, stage 2 clutch msd coil & wires, hurst shifter. Soon to be cobra top end

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my neon

dodge neon...dohc, intake, full exhaust, mopar pcm, msd ignition, and a lil more 7k rpm shifts from 1st

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Car Aftermarket Options Afford You Some Choices

If you consider yourself to be unique among the population and want to make yourself stand out from the crowd, a good option for room would be to customize your car using the many aftermarket options that are available. Most of these aftermarket options include paint jobs, engine upgrades, body kits, vinyls, etc... Some people are even willing to put in a hydraulic suspension system or even a nitrous boost in their car. Whether you choose to make a performance upgrade or even an aesthetic upgrade does some considerations you must take into account before making the choice between different kinds of upgrades.

Most of the options provided by the following aftermarket upgrades are listed as follows:

Paint jobs - Among the various color options provided by the manufacturer you may not find the color of your choice, this can be easily the immediate by the fact that it is quite easy and often cost-effective to get a whole new tricked out paint job from any of the local auto body shops. Before choosing a paint job always make sure that the painter you're choosing is reliable and providing you with the best price.

Performance upgrades - A performance upgrade can include anything from a complete engine upgrade to even small upgrades like putting in a MSD ignition system. Before making a performance upgrade always consult your mechanic about the ability of your car's chassis to handle the upgrade. Among the most popular upgrades turbochargers, new ignition systems, whole new transmission systems and even nitrous boost is quite common.

Aesthetic and aerodynamic upgrades - People often choose to make some aesthetic modifications to their cars changing the whole body of the car to make it look more edgy. There are several aftermarket body kits available in order to achieve this; along with the body kits many auto body shops also provide customized body modifications also. These modifications can include anything from a simple spoiler to a complete body kit overhaul.

Interior upgrades - People also choose to upgrade their interiors to include racing seats, leather upholstery and even roll cages. Most of these upgrades are not very cheap and can really set you back by thousands of dollars. A present trend is also seen where people are putting in bigger sound systems, DVD players, LCD TVs and even gaming consoles inside their car.

Among the many available aftermarket options whether you choose simple and low-cost spoilers or complete luxurious overhaul always remember to drive safely.

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My 91 Mazda RX-7 with 5.7 Chevy V8 Swap

This was my old RX-7 before i sold it. this was before the custom exhaust went on it. Comp street cam/lifter package, head work, Holley Intake, Edelbrock 650 carb, MSD Ignition system (MSD 6AL ignition box, MSD Pro Billet dist., MSD Blaster II coil), Hedman Headers, T5 tranny, hydraulic throwout bearing, Centerforce clutch, custom balanced/blueprinted driveshaft, Turbo II rear diff/CV shafts/rotors/brakes, pulley kit and some other stuff probably im forgetting.

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1974 RX4 Direct fire Ignition With MSD

Well this time I'm using an MSD 6A for the direct fire ignition. Took about 20 minutes to switch from DLIDFIS. Ghetto rigged it for a fast installation and just to test. Again my setup is stock and it needs fine tuning. So far I'm liking both ignition setups. An improvement over stock for sure IMO. Sounds different too from the muffler side. Next step is a 48 IDA with a new full exhaust. Streetport in the future works. No butt dyno on this one since its all just hanging loose. If you want to try it go to this website below. Mikey D from Mazdaspeed.com did a very good writeup. www.mazspeed.com

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