Danger - No Parts Available

I love sports cars, and my choice in cars are those which were made from the 1960's to the mid 1980's. So far I have had a 1960 Porsche, 1959 Peerless, 1984 Toyota MR2, 1980 Maserati, and currently a 1984 Ferrari. If you read classic car magazines you will find ad after ad for parts for American cars going back to the Model T Fords and earlier. No problemo you think. I can always get parts for older cars. On the other hand if you have a limited production sports car - good luck. Here are a couple of examples that I experienced.

1980 Maserati Merak SS model, with 652 cars made for worldwide distribution. I encountered a problem with a steering knuckle nut. No new ones available. None where being manufactured, because who would want to go to the expense of setting up production on a limited issue vehicle. It just was not practical. We checked all over the world. No luck. My mechanic found some with the right inside diameter, but the wrong outside. Next was one with the correct outside, but the wrong inside. I also tried finding a vehicle that was being "parted out", or dismantled. Finally my mechanic made one up from scratch. Next problem was the ignition system failed. No one could find a replacement for it. I contacted the original manufacturer and found they had sold the last two units several years ago.

Sorry but no plans to make new ones. None of these parts were available on the used parts market. Again my mechanic came through; he installed a new MSD ignition, and placed it out of the way in the engine compartment, leaving the original unit in place. This way the car looked original, but I was able to drive it. 1984 Ferrari 308 GTB. The engine started dying on me, which was interesting when you are in the fast lane on a freeway. I had to have the car towed in several times. Turned out to be a very subtle problem. It seems there are three sensors on the fly wheel which tell the engine management system various information about the position of internal parts. One was failing on an intermittent basis. Its one thing to determine what went wrong with a hard failure, and quite another when the problem comes and goes.

So big deal, let's buy a new sensor. Nope. Again none were available from the distributors, the factory or on the used parts marketplace. After some research my trusty mechanic found that some Lamborghini models used the same sensor. I replaced all three on the theory that the other two would be failing soon. The moral of these stories is that if you like exotic cars and buy one, be prepared for long periods of not having a car available while you wait for parts. The Maserati sat around for two months while we searched. Also be prepared to have someone hand build a broken or missing part, while you count your pennies figuring out if you can afford this solution. Oh, and brace yourself for some frustration, in between the times you really enjoy your car.

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1986 Ford F150 300 I6 Straight Pipe Exhaust

Great sounding Ford 300 inline 6 (4.9L). in a 1986 F150. Truck has a cracked frame and is for sale for $300 With spare frame sections and axle. Truck has an MSD Blaster ignition coil, Grant steering wheel, Sunpro tach that's not hooked up, APC fog lights, ghetto pedal covers (Rubber pedal covers fell off), Edelbrock air filter that needs an adapter, new fuel pump, new distributor cap/rotor, new plugs and wires, 4 speed floor shift, new brakes, new brake lines, and more.

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1969 Cougar audio clip

1969 Mercury Cougar. 351W. Full MSD ignition, air gap intake, 670 cfm Holley. Comp cam, 2 inch exhaust. Purple hornies mufflers,3K rpm stall, 3.89 gears in the rear. I love this car more than most people I know, and it makes me sick to see what has happened to the roof since the vinyl top has failed. One more TDY over seas, and she will start getting more attention!

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Stock Car Electronics - Proper Grounding

Proper grounding of stock car electronics is a critical to winning races. All ground connections should contact bare metal. Powder coating and anodizing both act as insulators preventing a good connection. Not only must the block be grounded, but the cylinder heads must be separately grounded as well. Whether you call it a brain, MSD, black box, amplifier, box, or ignition box, it must have a common ground with the rest of the car and electrical system. If the ignition coil is an E-core design, the coil bracket must be grounded. Make sure that the starter solenoid is grounded. Some solenoids have a dedicated ground wire, but most ground through the mounting bracket.

You should have a 1/4" ground stud welded to the chassis in an easily accessible location near the starter solenoid. This is a common ground junction point for the engine, cylinder heads, ignition, tach, driver coolers, and all blowers. It may be prettier to hide junction posts and the like, but when you are in a hurry trying to fix a problem, accessibility is essential. By making the ground stud 1/4" and using 1/4" ring connectors on all ground wires, you cannot mistakenly put a ground wire on a hot power source. Both the Master disconnect and the starter solenoid studs are 5/16" or larger.

The steering wheel stop switch should be connected in line from the ignition On-Off switch and the Ignition box. Some people who run MSD ignition boxes may use the points trigger wire and the stop switch to complete a circuit to ground. Their logic is "that if the switch fails, the car will still run." Logically, if a switch fails, it has a 50-50 chance of failure in either position. A quality switch assembly will prevent failure. The main reason from an electrical/electronic standpoint to interrupt the power from the ignition switch is to reduce radio interference. The wire from the ignition switch only carries 5-10 milliamps whereas the points wire carries many times that amount since its designed purpose was to carry to the points enough energy to burn through any oil film or moisture on the point surfaces and trigger the box. Always try to separate the PTT coiled cable and the Stop Switch coiled cable.

The master switch should be on the POSITIVE side of the battery circuit. Electronic devices including the tachometer, Ignition box, and alternator all take a very small electrical pulse and amplify it with transistors and other electronic components, to the point where the signal is strong enough to control the ignition output or other related functions. Electron flow needs to be shut off on the POSITIVE side to prevent a potentially harmful backup of electrical energy. Under a no load, condition when everything is shut off, it is acceptable to disconnect the NEGATIVE wire first. Interrupting the current flow by switching batteries via the ground cable, or otherwise shutting off the negative flow may cause electronic components to fail.

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Automotive Performance Upgrades

Considering some performance enhancements to your car, or new to performance scene? Here is an article designed to help you learn the basics.

First of all, you want to have a "well-oiled machine" in order to start performance work on your car. Keep up with the basic maintenance requirements and make sure everything else is performing as it should before you begin upgrading (i.e. no check engine light, no fluid leaks, etc.). However, you can incorporate performance enhancements into your basic maintenance as well. For example, if you have a car that's due for a tune up, you can use Iridium spark plugs, and a K&N air filter, or upgraded ignition components such as MSD ignition products, bigger wires, etc. You also always want to use high-quality oil in your vehicle. Your vehicle is your baby, take care of it and it will reward you every day. High quality oil only costs a few dollars more, and you'll drive with confidence knowing the internals of your engine are lubricated with the good stuff. Oils we recommend are Castrol GTX, Mobil 1 Synthetic, and Royal Purple.

If you're looking for something a little more hopped up, look into getting a high performance exhaust. Opening up the exhaust will open up the air flow coming from your engine and remove restrictions that cause poor performance. If you live in a pollution-regulated state or district, make sure to choose an exhaust system that is certified to pass emissions tests or is 50-state legal. Call us and we can recommend an exhaust for you to purchase and have installed at our shop. Magnaflow is a good-quality brand that covers most makes and models of vehicles at an affordable price. In addition to performance exhaust systems, you can also choose modifications such as headers and downpipes, and free-flowing catalytic converters.

Next, you'll want to upgrade your air intake system. Depending on your vehicle, a cold air intake is going to be the best performance for your money. A cold air intake not only opens up the airflow coming into your engine, it also re-routes the factory airbox system to a location where heat from the engine won't increase the temperature of the air coming in. Most high-quality cold air intakes are designed by engineers with years of experience on specific vehicles that have optimized the location of the incoming air filter to be the in the coolest spot possible. When researching cold air intakes, you want to go for quality not price, it will make a big difference in the horsepower you can get out of it. Recommended brands are Injen, AEM, K&N, and others depending on your make and model.

Suspension and Steering is another department in which a lot of aftermarket upgrades are available. Again, if you're due for maintenance like changing your struts or replace your coil springs, you may want to look at installing aftermarket parts since you're going to be spending the money anyway. Most of the suspension upgrades you do will go hand in hand with the amount of horsepower you're adding to the car. You want to make sure your car is going to be able to physically handle the added power. Even if you're not going for huge amounts of horsepower, an aftermarket suspension will increase your vehicle's overall handling capabilities and ride comfort. Depending on the make of your vehicle, some great brands are Koni, KW, H&R, and TEIN. There are many choices available, call us before you decide so we can help you choose the best ride quality and handling for your personal tastes and budget.

Still want more power? By this time you've developed what we call the "addiction" to performance. There is a whole world of aftermarket upgrades out there, from computer chips to engine building to forced induction to full-on nitrous foggers. By then your car will have transformed into a full-blown street or race machine, and your wallet will be lighter. However far you choose to go with it, we are here for you to provide recommendations on parts and install whatever you choose to go with.

Thanks for reading, and don't hesitate to call us at (888) 806-6283 and we can custom-design a performance package for your vehicle and ship the parts directly to your door or a qualified shop of your choice. In Florida? Considering bring the vehicle to our shop in Sarasota for a professional consultation and installation.

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1995 mustang powersliding (aka swave')

Aluminum flywheel, msd ignition, stage 2 clutch msd coil & wires, hurst shifter. Soon to be cobra top end

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my neon

dodge neon...dohc, intake, full exhaust, mopar pcm, msd ignition, and a lil more 7k rpm shifts from 1st

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Car Aftermarket Options Afford You Some Choices

If you consider yourself to be unique among the population and want to make yourself stand out from the crowd, a good option for room would be to customize your car using the many aftermarket options that are available. Most of these aftermarket options include paint jobs, engine upgrades, body kits, vinyls, etc... Some people are even willing to put in a hydraulic suspension system or even a nitrous boost in their car. Whether you choose to make a performance upgrade or even an aesthetic upgrade does some considerations you must take into account before making the choice between different kinds of upgrades.

Most of the options provided by the following aftermarket upgrades are listed as follows:

Paint jobs - Among the various color options provided by the manufacturer you may not find the color of your choice, this can be easily the immediate by the fact that it is quite easy and often cost-effective to get a whole new tricked out paint job from any of the local auto body shops. Before choosing a paint job always make sure that the painter you're choosing is reliable and providing you with the best price.

Performance upgrades - A performance upgrade can include anything from a complete engine upgrade to even small upgrades like putting in a MSD ignition system. Before making a performance upgrade always consult your mechanic about the ability of your car's chassis to handle the upgrade. Among the most popular upgrades turbochargers, new ignition systems, whole new transmission systems and even nitrous boost is quite common.

Aesthetic and aerodynamic upgrades - People often choose to make some aesthetic modifications to their cars changing the whole body of the car to make it look more edgy. There are several aftermarket body kits available in order to achieve this; along with the body kits many auto body shops also provide customized body modifications also. These modifications can include anything from a simple spoiler to a complete body kit overhaul.

Interior upgrades - People also choose to upgrade their interiors to include racing seats, leather upholstery and even roll cages. Most of these upgrades are not very cheap and can really set you back by thousands of dollars. A present trend is also seen where people are putting in bigger sound systems, DVD players, LCD TVs and even gaming consoles inside their car.

Among the many available aftermarket options whether you choose simple and low-cost spoilers or complete luxurious overhaul always remember to drive safely.

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My 91 Mazda RX-7 with 5.7 Chevy V8 Swap

This was my old RX-7 before i sold it. this was before the custom exhaust went on it. Comp street cam/lifter package, head work, Holley Intake, Edelbrock 650 carb, MSD Ignition system (MSD 6AL ignition box, MSD Pro Billet dist., MSD Blaster II coil), Hedman Headers, T5 tranny, hydraulic throwout bearing, Centerforce clutch, custom balanced/blueprinted driveshaft, Turbo II rear diff/CV shafts/rotors/brakes, pulley kit and some other stuff probably im forgetting.

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1974 RX4 Direct fire Ignition With MSD

Well this time I'm using an MSD 6A for the direct fire ignition. Took about 20 minutes to switch from DLIDFIS. Ghetto rigged it for a fast installation and just to test. Again my setup is stock and it needs fine tuning. So far I'm liking both ignition setups. An improvement over stock for sure IMO. Sounds different too from the muffler side. Next step is a 48 IDA with a new full exhaust. Streetport in the future works. No butt dyno on this one since its all just hanging loose. If you want to try it go to this website below. Mikey D from Mazdaspeed.com did a very good writeup. www.mazspeed.com

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1963 Chevrolet Big Window C10, Pickup ½ Ton Blown/Supercharged

Late 350, bored & stroked, 4 bolt main, Competition Cam with ported and polished heads. All the right parts built and installed by a local hot rod shop in 2005. Includes Weiand 144 Low Profile Pro-Street Supercharger, Holly 750 carburetor & aluminum Intake, MSD Ignition with Boost Timing Master Kit, Vintage A/C system, and late 87 700R4 with B&M Super Transkit & Converter Lockup Control plus much more

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1974 CUDA 440 5 speed-SHOW QUALITY $55000.00

1 of 335 built. It had a full nut/bolt, rotiss. restoration. It now has the 440 dual quad with a 5 speed tremec trans with the original pistol grip. It has all the original rust free panels,floors, glass, chrome, and trim. Original interior as well except for the Autometer gauges, Galen Govier Registry #42 of 54 known left to exist. Keith Black Pistons Steel Crank ARP Bolts Dual Quad Edelbrock Carbs Aluminum Heads MSD Ignition PainLess Wiring Be COOL Radiator Howards Hydrolic Cam $20k paint job All work done approx. 4 yrs ago. Tremec 5 Spd trans. 847 609 0064 www.justamericanmusclecars.com

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390FE to 423 stroker

1969 F-250 highboy, 423 stroker, 390FE block bored .60 over with a 428 crank (3.98 stroke), Performance Eagle rods, 390 gt heads, comp cam springs, .292 duration cam, hedman headers, msd 6al ignition and blaster coil, edelbrock performer intake, holley 750 double pumper

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How to Change Your Vehicles Spark Plugs

A spark plug is used in every type of gasoline engine. Many people change their own spark plugs. Spark plugs handle the ignition spark that combusts or ignites the engines fuel and moves the piston. Spark plugs have to endure very high temperatures from combustion. Spark plugs also have to handle the spark erosion from the ignition system.

There are many popular brands of spark plugs like champion, ngk, bosch, denso and autolite. Spark plugs can be gapped widely to help burn the mixture in the cylinder, especially if the mixture is lean. Spark plug gap refers to the distance between the little metal piece that hangs below the plug and the center electrode. A lean fuel mixture can not ignite as easily. A wide spark gap is used to jump across more of the chamber mixture and can help induce combustion.

The plug gap can be too wide, especially if the ignition system is weak. This is why race engines use very high power CDI (capacitive discharge ignition) like MSD to ensure good spark. The engine needs more power to jump a wider gap or the high compression of a performance engine. There are many types of spark plugs such as platinum and iridium for longevity because they resist spark erosion (wearing away of metal) better than steel.

Spark plugs have heat ranges that either transfer more heat or contain more. This is accomplished by the design and transferring of heat through the base of the plug. Heat range is either cooled or lowered for use with high compression, turbo or supercharged four stroke engines. This is so that the hot plug won't pre-ignite the mixture causing engine damage.

Many two stroke engines or oil consuming four strokes will have a problem with fouling plugs. If fouling occurs the heat range may need to be increased to keep the oil burned off the plug. Oil on a spark plug will cause it the engine to foul, misfire and run rough. Champion plugs use higher numbers on their plugs to mean that the temperature will be higher. NGK's use the opposite range, higher number means a colder plug.

Most two stroke engines use NGK plugs for their excellent anti-fouling capabilities. Some plugs will also be a p type or projected insulated electrode. Depending on the engine chamber design, this can help to place the actual spark closer to the center of the cylinder head chamber.

Spark plugs are located in the engine's head, under the spark plug wires. The plug wires are easy to spot due to their larger size and location close to the top of the engine. They also come from the engines distributor to the plug. Remove the wire from each plug, and don't forget to place the wire in the same spot that it was first hooked to when finished! Most spark plugs can be removed with either a 13/16" or 5/8" socket. Inspect plugs to see if the electrode (center piece) and the grounding tab still has defined edges or are rounded, eroded and worn out. If worn replace them, this will help fuel mileage and performance.

Although the spark plug gap is different for different engines, most are gapped between .030" and .045". The spark plug gap spec should be located under the hood or on a sticker on recreational vehicles. Use a feeler gauge to measure the plug gap, then tap the electrode closed or gently pry gap wider with a screw driver until the distance is reached. Tighten the spark plug snugly as the sealing washer will compress a little the first time. Always check the small top metal cap on a plug to see that it's screwed on tight.

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MSD Ignition Box - Differences & Features

Watch David Freiburger and Chad Reynolds guide you through the features and differences of the MSD Ignition 6 Series. Visit tinyurl.com to see our full selection of MSD Ignition parts.

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Cylinder Deactivation: A Good Thing?

Cruising down the highway your car is traveling at a set speed not needing the full use of all of its engine power, but eating up precious fuel nevertheless. That V6 or V8 under the hood could be much more efficient if it employed one important piece of modern day technology: cylinder deactivation. Does your vehicle have this feature? If so, exactly what does it do and is it a good thing? Read on to learn what some automakers are doing to conserve fuel without making significant changes to your vehicle.

Elevated fuel prices have consumers scrambling for answers. Some are switching to hybrids, others to diesel, while still others are choosing smaller and lighter vehicles all in a bid to save on fuel. While no one quite knows what the long term fuel prices will be, automotive manufacturers are able to squeeze out better fuel mileage through a rather simple technological change: cylinder deactivation. Cylinder deactivation works this way: let's say you are cruising down the interstate at a set speed of about 65 miles per hour. The road surface is flat therefore there isn't a whole lot of demand on your engine. Instead of running all six or eight cylinders, why not run your engine on three or four?

Back during the early 1980s, GM unsuccessfully tried this with Cadillac by offering what they called 8-6-4 displacement. Unfortunately, the technology wasn't as refined as it is today and the experiment failed miserably. Today, however, thanks to central processing unit chips, displacement on demand is a viable alternative. When driving at cruise, sensors tell the engine to shut down half of its cylinders thereby reducing gas consumption. Although typical gains range in the neighborhood of just 5-7%, an across the board introduction of this technology could reduce our dependency on foreign oil and lift corporate fuel economy across the board.

For three years now GM has offered active fuel management [or AFM] with several V8 engines and the technology will soon find its way on V6 engines for the Chevy Uplander and Impala. Honda has its own variable cylinder management [or VCM] for select V6 powered Odysseys, Accords, and Pilots. Other automakers are studying the cylinder deactivation with more manufacturers expected to jump in.

Unlike previous attempts at engine deactivation, the latest attempt at shutting down unneeded cylinders appears to be a success. Thanks to refinement of the hydraulic valve lifters and improvements in engine and exhaust tuning, engines featuring cylinder deactivation technology are able to transition quickly and quietly from a fuel efficient mode to one requiring full power. Thus, consumers get the best of both worlds: power and maximum fuel efficiency.

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Cylinder Deactivation: A Good Thing?

Cruising down the highway your car is traveling at a set speed not needing the full use of all of its engine power, but eating up precious fuel nevertheless. That V6 or V8 under the hood could be much more efficient if it employed one important piece of modern day technology: cylinder deactivation. Does your vehicle have this feature? If so, exactly what does it do and is it a good thing? Read on to learn what some automakers are doing to conserve fuel without making significant changes to your vehicle.

Elevated fuel prices have consumers scrambling for answers. Some are switching to hybrids, others to diesel, while still others are choosing smaller and lighter vehicles all in a bid to save on fuel. While no one quite knows what the long term fuel prices will be, automotive manufacturers are able to squeeze out better fuel mileage through a rather simple technological change: cylinder deactivation. Cylinder deactivation works this way: let's say you are cruising down the interstate at a set speed of about 65 miles per hour. The road surface is flat therefore there isn't a whole lot of demand on your engine. Instead of running all six or eight cylinders, why not run your engine on three or four?

Back during the early 1980s, GM unsuccessfully tried this with Cadillac by offering what they called 8-6-4 displacement. Unfortunately, the technology wasn't as refined as it is today and the experiment failed miserably. Today, however, thanks to central processing unit chips, displacement on demand is a viable alternative. When driving at cruise, sensors tell the engine to shut down half of its cylinders thereby reducing gas consumption. Although typical gains range in the neighborhood of just 5-7%, an across the board introduction of this technology could reduce our dependency on foreign oil and lift corporate fuel economy across the board.

For three years now GM has offered active fuel management [or AFM] with several V8 engines and the technology will soon find its way on V6 engines for the Chevy Uplander and Impala. Honda has its own variable cylinder management [or VCM] for select V6 powered Odysseys, Accords, and Pilots. Other automakers are studying the cylinder deactivation with more manufacturers expected to jump in.

Unlike previous attempts at engine deactivation, the latest attempt at shutting down unneeded cylinders appears to be a success. Thanks to refinement of the hydraulic valve lifters and improvements in engine and exhaust tuning, engines featuring cylinder deactivation technology are able to transition quickly and quietly from a fuel efficient mode to one requiring full power. Thus, consumers get the best of both worlds: power and maximum fuel efficiency.

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